Santiago at the crosswalk

​As you enter the square in front of the Cathedral of Santiago to compete the Camino, it is the culmination of 5 weeks of dedicated effort.  It is really apparent among the throngs of tourists, which people are the pilgrims. Some pilgrims are visibly relieved that their task has been completed.  Some are almost exultant, raising their arms up into the air with clinched fists. Most are quiet, trying to absorb what they have done and how it may have changed them. And one was dressed like a medieval pilgrim, with a black tunic, a pilgrim’s black hat, and a walking staff with a water gourd.  All are welcomed. 

Once the pilgrims reach the Cathedral plaza, most go directly to the pilgrim’s office just off the plaza. There you enter some basic personal information into a computer terminal. Name, gender, age, starting point and reason for pilgrimage. You are given a ticket and when your number is called, you go to the counter to meet with the pilgrim representative.  There you will be greeted and questioned about your Camino.  They review the data you entered, review your credentials (where you collected your place stamps) and ask you why you went on the Camino.  Usually, there is no time to get into a prolonged theological discussion, but they really seemed to want to know.  Then they prepare your compostela (certificate) and you are finished.

Well, maybe not finished.  The primary purpose of the original pilgrimage is complete.  You have journeyed to Santiago by the prescribed routes and methods and in the old days, your compostela would be good for the forgiveness of your sins.  But many felt that their journey was incomplete and continued on to the west to the ocean where they could metaphorically cast the remains of the sinful lives into the sea (along with their old smelly clothing).

A few days after we finished, we drove to Finisterre and to Muxia which were the two most common follow on destinations for pilgrims.  Both are situated austerely on outcroppings of rock high above the Atlantic.  Both had a fair number of pilgrims hiking their way to the sea.  At the end we saw again, tears and quiet reflection.  I don’t know if anyone was truly throwing away sinful lives, but most appeared moved.  It is a fitting ending.

More on the Camino in the coming days.  Thanks for following along.

Buen Camino