Churches of the Camino

​The institution of the Christian church has been present in the Iberian peninsula from the very beginning of the church.  Early traditions relate evangelization by Saint James and others.  While these reports were from the second and third centuries, they were widely believed in Spain and fed into later belief of the return of Saint James body after his martyrdom.  

While there is some physical evidence of churches during Roman times, the churches were not large nor did any (that I learned of) survive.  In the 5th century AD, Roman Iberia was conquered by the germanic Visigoths.  They established some cathedrals but while these were preserved through the Islamic conquest they weren’t considered adequate by later Christian conquerers.  Their rule was also complicated by their adherence to a heretical form of Christianity (Arianism) that kept them from establishing a coherent religious society.  After the Islamic conquest in the 6th and 7th century, Christians could worship in their churches but were under some pressure to convert and few new churches were built.  Those that were built were interesting amalgams of Christian and Moorish architecture which was called Mozarab.  Unfortunately, most of those were rebuilt after the reconquest because they were considered inadequate or simply to purge the prior Moorish influence.

One is struck by the sheer number of churches that were built between 600 and 900 years ago that still survive.  In northern Spain, the vast majority of surviving churches are romanesque in design.  There are scattered pre-romanesque churches, but the vast majority are romanesque.  These range from the many community or parrish churches which are present in all of the small towns to magnificent cathedrals in the larger cities.  I will need to research where all the money for these churches came from.  In larger cities like Leon and Burgos, there are huge gothic and baroque cathedrals that obviously benefited from New World gold.  But the funding for all the romanesque churches still puzzles me.  

The gothic cathedrals are as immense and magnificent as money can buy.  The beautiful stained glass windows, the ornate altarpieces, the awe inspiring porticos (you easily run out of superlatives) demand your appreciation.  Many (most?) were built on and/or with the stones from earlier churches.  The Cathedral of Saint James in Santiago was built on top of an earlier romanesque cathedral about half the size of the current building.  And this was built on top of an even earlier church which was the first building to house the relics of Saint James.    

Most of the gothic cathedrals have layers of artistic periods layered upon the original construction.  Side chapels added to commemorate the support of various rulers.  New asps and transepts, new altarpieces, new or renovated or removed choir areas.  All with various elements of gothic, baroque or newer styles.  Some are a little ostentatious but they are all striking.  I imagine it creates some issues to the restorationists as to what time periods to retain and to restore to.  

One reason that the churches of northern Spain have survived so well is that most regions of northern Spain did not suffer destruction due to war.  Spain was spared from World Wars I and II and was little affected by the Spanish Civil War (except the Basque region).  Other advantages (?) were the generally poor Spanish economy over the last two centuries and immigration from the region.  There wasn’t the money nor the population pressure to tear down old churches to reuse the land.  You see very few ‘newer’ churches.

I loved the churches of the Camino.  They are quiet, usually dark (thank you romanesque windows), and still.  It is wonderful to go into the churches and simply listen.  Listen to silent footsteps that wore down the stone walkways.  Listen to the silent echos of prayers of the priests and faithful that lived centuries ago.  Listen to your heart as you contemplate or pray.  It was one of the best parts of my Camino

Santiago at the crosswalk

​As you enter the square in front of the Cathedral of Santiago to compete the Camino, it is the culmination of 5 weeks of dedicated effort.  It is really apparent among the throngs of tourists, which people are the pilgrims. Some pilgrims are visibly relieved that their task has been completed.  Some are almost exultant, raising their arms up into the air with clinched fists. Most are quiet, trying to absorb what they have done and how it may have changed them. And one was dressed like a medieval pilgrim, with a black tunic, a pilgrim’s black hat, and a walking staff with a water gourd.  All are welcomed. 

Once the pilgrims reach the Cathedral plaza, most go directly to the pilgrim’s office just off the plaza. There you enter some basic personal information into a computer terminal. Name, gender, age, starting point and reason for pilgrimage. You are given a ticket and when your number is called, you go to the counter to meet with the pilgrim representative.  There you will be greeted and questioned about your Camino.  They review the data you entered, review your credentials (where you collected your place stamps) and ask you why you went on the Camino.  Usually, there is no time to get into a prolonged theological discussion, but they really seemed to want to know.  Then they prepare your compostela (certificate) and you are finished.

Well, maybe not finished.  The primary purpose of the original pilgrimage is complete.  You have journeyed to Santiago by the prescribed routes and methods and in the old days, your compostela would be good for the forgiveness of your sins.  But many felt that their journey was incomplete and continued on to the west to the ocean where they could metaphorically cast the remains of the sinful lives into the sea (along with their old smelly clothing).

A few days after we finished, we drove to Finisterre and to Muxia which were the two most common follow on destinations for pilgrims.  Both are situated austerely on outcroppings of rock high above the Atlantic.  Both had a fair number of pilgrims hiking their way to the sea.  At the end we saw again, tears and quiet reflection.  I don’t know if anyone was truly throwing away sinful lives, but most appeared moved.  It is a fitting ending.

More on the Camino in the coming days.  Thanks for following along.

Buen Camino

Santiago

​We made it to Santiago.  We walked to and checked in with our albergue for the night.  It was situated halfway between Lavacollas (our last stop) and Santiago but close to the airport where Jo and Anne would arrive the next day.  So far, so good.  Oh, but it was raining.  It had been raining the two days previously, but at a manageable rate.  It was raining much harder with much stronger winds when we departed our new albergue for the Cathedral in Santiago.

This Cathedral has been the goal of the pilgrimages for 1,000 years because some bones of Saint James the Great were buried there.  As the story goes, St James evangelized the inhabitants of northeast Spain prior to returning to the Holy Land for martyrdom.  After his death, he was transported across the Mediterranean in a stone boat which brought his remains to Santiago where they were subsequently buried.  Fast forward to the 9th century and St James’ bones were discovered near Santiago and were placed in the cathedral in Santiago.  These relics were considered so potent that pilgrims ventured from throughout all of western Christendom to Santiago to venerate the bones of Saint James.   These relics were so potent that the Pope granted indulgences for the forgiveness of all sins for people who completed the pilgrimage.

Back to the rain, it started coming down really hard with winds up to 35 mph and temperatures in the 40’s.  We left our rucksacks at the albergue and we felt like we were flying  being so light on our feet as we began.  As the 10 km second part of our day’s journey proceeded, I got colder and colder.  My gear was adequate for light rain but was totally inadequate for what we were facing.  I kept my temperature up by moving quickly and we arrived at the Cathedral without issue.  But when I stopped moving and started the administrative processing for my Compostela (certificate of completion), the cold got to me and I started shivering uncontrollably.

The cathedral is indeed magnificent.  It has a huge plaza in front of the main entrance and massive twin spires facing the plaza.  There are loads of ornamentation across the facade with large and small statues in abundance.  It is one of the largest cathedrals in Europe, capable of holding over 1200 worshipers.  It is magnificent.

However, I was really cold.  After completing our paperwork and taking a few obligatory pictures, we eventually flagged down a taxi for the trip back to our albergue.  Once there, I stripped off all my sopping wet clothes and took a really nice hot shower and finally stopped shivering.  There will be more time to visit and appreciate both the cathedral and our pilgrimage when the wives arrive.  More on that later.

Buen Camino

Sorry for the break

​A little over a week ago, I fell on the ground and my iPhone broke my fall when I landed on a rock. There was a big dent in the back of my phone, although I wasn’t injured. However, phone was toast.  It took me a few days until I reached a city where I could buy a replacement iPhone and a few more days until I could sort out passwords with Jo to reactivate my phone. I also found that my portable keyboard is not compatible with my new phone so I am still figuring out the best way to handle word processing. 

I did continue on the Camino. There are so many wonderful things that occurred over thattime. I stayed in a monastery Abby and saw a traditional music festival in the city of Samos. They were more early Romanesque design churches scattered throughout a wonderful countryside. Myblisters did not cause a problem although my traveling partner did develop shin splints.  That has slowed us down, but we will be in Santiago in time to meet the wives on the 4th. There are so many things that I could talk about, Mozarab and Romanesque churches, the beautiful countryside and the wonderful fellow pilgrims. Since my time would be so compressed, I have decided to continue my commentary over the next several weeks.  I can discuss the trails, the wonderful people and the discussions we have had.  

Buen Camino!