Friday, March 29, 2024

Saint Jean Pied de Port

​Today, Dave and I arrived at the traditional starting point for the French route of the Camino de Santiago.  We left the hotel and walked 3 miles through the rain to get to the bus station.. It was sort of a shake down of our wet weather gear.  Life is learning and I learned that I needed to make some modification in the way that I used my rain gear.  Ponchos, when used with backpacks, still require a rain jacket if you are going to have your arms free.  Even if you think that you can keep your arms under the poncho.  

The ride from Pamplona was uneventful.  We couldn’t see much because of the rain/clouds and the steamy windows from the other wet pilgrims on the bus.  The route was parallel to the route that we would walk back to Pamplona over the first four days of the Camino and all the hill climbing and switchbacks pointed to the significant climb of the first day.  There were several Americans on the bus but about half the bus was communicating in a different language.  We had some nice conversations while waiting for the bus and while we were on the road.  

When we got to St Jean, the rain was coming down hard.  Harder than we had run into in several days of rain in Pamplona.  Dave was using a rain suit but I got soaked while retrieving my backpack from under the bus and getting the poncho situated.  St Jean is a cute medieval town that has been featured on Rick Steves.  Old buildings, city walls and some narrow winding streets that we mostly pedestrian now.

Our first stop was the Pilgrims office where we had our Pilgrim Passport validated.  We also received a briefing on the trail conditions.  The higher Route de Napoleon is closed due to snow but the slightly lower route (only 3,000 foot climb) is passable.   We also received our Camino scallop shells.  Mine is now hanging from the back of my rucksack.

We had reservations at our first albergue and it was a short 5 minute walk from the Pilgrim’s office.  It is sort of a rambling building but with rooms of only two beds.  That works!  It has an area that you can wash clothes, a common bathroom and shower and a nice sitting area where you can read and talk.  However, only one other couple (there are about 16 people) spoke English.  The rest were Korean and Japanese and English was not one of their skill sets (nor do I speak their languages).  The dinner was family style with soup, a lamb/noodle main course, dark chocolate dessert with a nice red wine.  I am now about ready for bed.

It is supposed to stop raining about 3:00 AM and the temperature should be in the mid 40’s.  Fine hiking weather.  Breakfast will be at 6:00 and the first opportunity for a stop will be about 5 miles in.  We’re off!

Buen Camino 

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